Friday, 21 October 2016

First Coast Brews: Mead all about it!

By Stephanie Danley

You might have noticed it in shops or even coming soon to our local breweries (Wicked Barley and Engine 15), the trend in craft brewing is  moving to Ciders and Meads.  The craft beer industry is resurrecting an old style and injecting it with new ideas.  I'm always amazed at the creativity in the industry.
This past week I attended an introduction to Mead held at Total Wine.  I've just recently discovered the events and classes there and this was my first event.  I'd suggest checking them out. They have classes and events for nearly every kind of alcohol available in the store.  Costs are minimal, I paid $5 for the Mead class.
The stars of this class are the brewers/owners of B. Nektar Meadery, Brad and Kerri Dahlhofer and Paul Zimmerman and Florida sales rep Mark Houdeshell.  This Mead specific brewery is based in Ferndale Michigan and is the largest Meadery in the country. Brad Dahlhofer said that the output of the Meadery is probably smaller than Cigar City or Funky Buddha, but as far as Meaderies go, they are the largest.  They also occupy a spot on the Worldwide Top 100 Breweries list put out by RateBeer.com.
As an introduction, Brad explained that Mead is simply honey, water and yeast.  Where beer gets its fermentable sugar from grains and wine from grapes, Mead uses honey.  Brewing Mead can take as short as a couple of months (for low alcohol yields) or over a year for higher ABV content.
Brad is VP of the American Mead Maker Association. He said there are very strong restrictions regarding Mead.  Currently there is a bill in Congress called The Mead Act, that would do a multitude of things including changing the definition of what makes a Mead and making it easier for Mead to be produced.
Mead is possibly the oldest alcohol in existence.  It is thought that ancient man transported honey home and in whatever container it was carried, water leaked in, wild yeast from the air took over and Mead was created.  Archeologists have found traces of honey in ancient alcohol, lending some credibility to this.
Meads can be still or sparkling, which would make you think of them more as wines.  But today's brewers are far more adventurous and the fit is better with craft beer.  After having sampled five of B. Nektar's products I have to agree, it was very easy to think of Meads as craft beer.
Our first sample of the evening was Zombie Killer, technically not a mead, but a cider with honey and cherry juice.  Kerri, Brad's wife, is a graphic designer and explained how this first flagship brew created their entire brand.  They are very pop culture based, Zombie Killer came from one of the employees, who was into a little graphic novel called The Walking Dead.  Kerri designed the zombie (apple) being killed by the cherry.  Each label is a work of art and I'd encourage you to read the descriptions.
I enjoyed the tart apple notes of Zombie Killer, the cherry added tartness, but the honey was very present.  It is a smooth sweet drink, slightly pink and would be perfect to toast the return of a certain show.
Keeping in the pop culture, NecroMangocon is a tribute to Michigan natives Sam Raimi and Bruce Campbell, and their Evil Dead franchise.  Both are native to the area around B. Nektar. This is a true mead, with Mango Juice and Black Pepper added.  Interestingly Saison yeast was added to this mead.  If you like that funky flavour from good Farmhouse style ales, you'll like this too.
Grinding all the peppercorns needed for Necromangocon, turned into a problem for them.  They were destroying spice grinders and food processors.  Eventually they found a commercial coffee grinder (like the ones you see in grocery stores) to grind the pepper.  
I personally loved this Mead.  The Mango flavour was present, but that kick of black pepper tempered the sweetness.  I found myself sipping it over and over again, actually swirling it like it was wine.   I will definitely be keeping this around!
Next we moved on to Vampires and Black Fang.  Kerri is very fond of Vampire lore, this is a favourite of hers.  Originally she wanted to call it Fang Bangers, after the humans who love vampires from True Blood/Sookie Stackhouse novels.  HBO has that copy written, so Black Fang comes from the colour of this mead.  It contains Blackberry, clove, orange zest and the honey is wildflower.
Cloves are very forward in this dark red brew.  If you like mulled wine or other warm winter concoctions, you will love Black Fang.  And make sure you check out Kerri on the label, she merged a Nosferatu with a photo of herself to create this label.

Dwarf Invasion, is partially inspired by a Michigan folk tale of Nain Rouge, a red dwarf of mischief.  There is also a metal song, Dwarf Invasion, YouTube it if you like.  Such a great evening, with entertaining people.
Dwarf Invasion outside of the Nain Rouge and metal music, is a wildflower honey, Balaton cherry and Styrian Golding hops brew.  They were influenced by Belgian beer for this mead.  The hops are perfect in here and truly gives the essence of Belgium.  I could drink a lot of this.
We finished with a Special Release Mead called Devil's Juice.  This is a powerful drink, both in ABV (15.5%) and flavor.  They smoked pineapple (originally 665 pounds, but the crew made it 666 in honor of the name) and added Serrano, jalapeno and ghost peppers to the mix.
I'd suggest only trying this is you love spicy food.  A lot.  I could taste the pineapple and some smoky notes, but the pepper is in your face.  Brad said they also have a very limited run of basically Devil's Juice brewed with Carolina Reaper peppers, which are the hottest pepper.
They have fun with their brews and sometimes happy accidents happen.  They took Zombie Killer and aged it in Rye barrels, calling it Zombie takes Manhattan.  They had a funky batch of Killer Zombie that they intended to mix otherwise and it ended up being mixed with the Manhattan...so instead of tossing it, they tasted it and it was good, creating the Mutant Killer Zombie Manhattan Project Thingy.  In an ode to South Park they have Zombie Killer mixed with spices and they call it Oh My God They Killed Zombie!
Total Wine has a display of B. Nektar's meads available and Beer :30 Riverside and Kickbacks did have some on tap as well.  Until our locals get mead out, I'd encourage you to try B. Nektar.  At least read the labels. 

http://www.firstcoastnews.com/life/food/first-coast-brews/first-coast-brews-mead-all-about-it/336071123

Sunday, 16 October 2016

1066 and all that: a fateful taste for ale

By Rupert Millar

In one long, bloody but decisive day the era of a purely Anglo-Saxon England was brought to an end and the rule of the Normans began.
The invasion of 1066 was the last great invasion of England and shifted the focus of subsequent English history away from Scandinavia and towards the much closer continent across the Channel.
The coming of the Normans changed the English language, introduced new names (William, Henry, Robert, Alice and Margaret) and their aggressive policy of expansion (which was not consigned solely to Britain) began the process of closer union between the nations of these isles.
But did the Anglo-Saxons lose the battle because they over-indulged in ale the night before the battle?
A clever Guinness campaign for the 900th anniversary of the battle in 1966. Bishop Odo hands William the Conqueror a reviving glass of stout. As William of Malmesbury tells us of course, the Normans were very abstemious.

Even before the coming of the Normans the Anglo-Saxons were renowned for their taste for booze. Beer and mead would have been the principal drinks for most people both before and after the conquest. Wine would not have been unknown in Anglo-Saxon England but would have been principally drunk by the nobility and high-ranking clergy and not in great quantities. Imported from the continent it would have been an expensive luxury.
Beer was not and the English already had a reputation for their brewing skill which continued after the conquest. Low in alcohol, clean and refreshing, English ale was in the wagon train of gifts Thomas Becket took to the king of France on a diplomatic mission in 1158. The French courtiers are said to have wondered at “such an invention, a drink most wholesome, clear of dregs, rivaling wine in colour and surpassing it in flavour,” as a contemporary chronicler related.
It was plentiful too; the average monk had a daily allowance of around three gallons a day and the numerous festivals held throughout the year provided ample opportunity for drinking copious amounts.
The Anglo-Norman bishop John of Salisbury noted in the 1170s: “The English are noted among foreigners for their persistent drinking.”
This taste for booze was perhaps the Saxon’s undoing on the fateful night before the Battle of Hastings. As is well known, King Harold and his men had fought and won a crucial engagement against an invading Danish army led by Harald Hardrada at Stamford Bridge on 25 September.
Three days later, Duke William of Normandy landed at Pevensey and Harold had turned his army south, marching the 200 miles from Yorkshire to Kent in under three weeks, a fast pace for the time.
On 13 October the English army took up a strong position on Senlac Hill. the Normans and their Breton and Flemish allies camped below them. Foot sore and weary the English army apparently geared itself up for battle by staying up late into the night drinking ale and singing songs.
The chronicler William of Malmesbury, writing some 50 years after the battle, says: “The courageous leaders mutually prepared for battle, each according to his national custom. The English, as we have heard, passed the night without sleep, in drinking and singing, and in the morning proceeded without delay against the enemy.…On the other hand, the Normans passed the whole night in confessing their sins, and received the communion of the Lords body in the morning.”
Malmesbury was half Norman and while we need not dismiss his claim the English spent part of the night drinking as an outright slur (he clearly refers to both Harold and William as “courageous”), as a Norman and a churchman it is likely he considers the English taste for alcohol and their neglect of prayers as vital to their defeat. The pious Normans meanwhile who honoured God and confessed their sins were thus given victory.
He continues that the English prior to the conquest had wandered far from the path of righteous Christianity and the lords fallen into the lap of luxury and wantonness. He writes: “Drinking in parties was a universal practice, in which occupation they passed entire nights as well as days. They consumed their whole substance in mean and despicable houses, unlike the Normans and French, who live frugally in noble and splendid mansions. The vices attendant on drunkenness, which enervate the human mind, followed; hence it came about that when they engaged William, with more rashness and precipitate fury than military skill, they doomed themselves and their country to slavery by a single, and that an easy, victory. For nothing is less effective than rashness; and what begins with violence quickly ceases or is repelled.”
It is a motif one sees throughout medieval history. Almost 400 years later at Agincourt, chroniclers make great pains to point out that the English army spent the night at prayer and confession and were thus victorious against the French who, in their hubris, passed the night drinking and toasting the battle they believed was as good as won.
Divine will or not, lack of sleep and alcohol could very well have contributed to the Saxon defeat as Malmesbury says it did. Although the exact weather conditions for the 14 October 1066 are not recorded, it was apparently “unusually bright”. This is the time of the ‘Medieval Warm Period’ and it is possible the day was quite hot. The battle raged from 9am to dusk we are told and although there were pauses in the fighting as both sides drew breath, standing all day under the bright Sun and seeing off Norman assaults; exhaustion and dehydration must have taken their toll on the Saxons.
Towards evening, with the Normans having lured groups of Saxons down from the hill with their famous ‘retreats’, the English shield wall began to weaken. The Norman cavalry began probing for the weakest points, found them, exploited them and the Saxon line evaporated. Harold and his bodyguard, his huscarls, were isolated and cut down in a bloody heap. Perhaps already wounded by an arrow in the eye, Harold was likely singled out by several Norman knights who surrounded him and hacked him to death. His two brothers, Leofwine and Gyrth, also perished and with them the royal house of England.
The start of Norman rule was brutal. William, now king and ‘Conqueror’, laid waste to the north of England so terribly he later confessed it on his deathbed with shame. Anglo-Saxon lords were disinherited and their lands given to Norman barons. Feudalism and serfdom were introduced and Anglo-Saxons became second-class citizens. In the end, arguably, Englishness won out. The Norman and then Anglo-Norman aristocracy retained French as their first language for several hundred years but, gradually, they adopted English and proudly, albeit a tongue by then much altered by the injection of Latin French. Old Anglo-Saxon law also reappeared. Magna Carta, although initially designed to protect the rights of the barons not the common people, was largely based on the old English laws with respect to the protection of private property, individual liberty and the right to justice.
Some of our most celebrated folk heroes are also Saxons taking on the Norman invader, Ivanhoe and Robin Hood have both become champions of English liberty against an oppressive regime.
The drinks landscape of England also changed. Although it is a subject much debated it seems the Normans were largely responsible for bringing cider apples to England. There were Bretons in William’s army too and of course Normandy and Brittany are the home of French cider making so it’s possible the invader’s influence encouraged and enhanced a native English cider industry even if it did not completely introduce it.
The Normans did though have an important impact on wine in England. The Romans are said to have tried to introduce vines to England but without much success. In 282 AD the Emperor Probus, in overturning Domitian’s decree of AD 92, is said to have authorised the planting of vines in England but viticulture clearly did not take off. There may have been some vineyards in England in 1066, perhaps attached to monasteries but plantings certainly grew post-1066. In the Domesday Book of 1086 some 40 vineyards are chronicled, the furthest north being those at Ely. Yet the wine produced in England seems to have been considered inferior to that of France. In 1152 with Henry I’s marriage to Eleanor of Aquitaine huge vineyards in the Loire and Gascony provided England with cheaper, higher quality wine and local production withered.
Until now of course, English (and Welsh) wine is enjoying a renaissance and the number of wineries now reaches over 500, with 4,500 acres under vine.
So if you feel like raising a glass to the Conqueror’s victory or perhaps mourn the death of Godwinson here are some ideas:
Beer:
The natural drink of the Englishman. Battlefield Brewery in Shropshire has two beers that are right for the occasion, ‘Saxon Gold’ (named after a Saxon mint located in Shrewsbury) and ‘1066’. Ridgeway Brewing meanwhile has a beer called ‘Ivanhoe’ for those that want to celebrate some English pluck and one is rather spoilt for choice when it comes to the sheer array of Robin Hood-themed ales.
Hastings itself has many breweries and Kent and Sussex are the home of English hops so in a pinch just about anything from these southern counties will more than suffice.
Mead:
A special drink in Anglo-Saxon times and one in the middle of a comeback as those terrible ‘hipsters’ continue their quest for authenticity and cool retro things. Chefs RenĂ© Redzepi and Simon Rogan are among mead’s high-profile fans. The Cornish Mead Company has been flying the flag for the drink since the 1960s, Gosnells London Mead was founded in late 2013 and Lurgashall Winery in West Sussex is also a top mead brewer. So make today a chance to try some mead, wassail heartily and discover the honeyed delights of this ancient northern European brew.
Cider:
Where to begin with cider, yet another drink that has surged in popularity in recent years and offers the discerning drinker a wealth of choice. Kent and Sussex ciders are often sweeter and more like their Norman and Breton cousins than the cloudier, perils of West Country brew. Pick wisely.
Wine:
Normandy no longer has much of a wine producing industry, although one winery, Arpents du Soleil, does exist. So choose something English. Most English wineries are based in Sussex and Kent which makes them conveniently close to the site of the battle. Still or sparkling it doesn’t matter, English wine has never been better and with many producers saying 2016 could prove an exceptional vintage there’s every reason to hope there’s more to come.

https://www.thedrinksbusiness.com/2016/10/1066-and-all-that-a-fateful-taste-for-ale/