From chestnuthilllocal.com
As Philadelphians get ready to toast America’s 250th anniversary this summer, they might find themselves enjoying some of the same drinks the first Americans did, such as wine, beer or cider. But there is another drink, though less well-known, with a much older lineage: mead. Also known as “honey wine,” mead was less common in colonial America — but 250 years later, it is gaining popularity, including here in the Philadelphia area.
Philadelphia Mead Company, co-owned and founded by brothers Rich and Steve Kassabian, is helping to resurrect the ancient drink.
“It’s widely believed to be the first alcohol known to man,” said Rich Kassabian. “Historians agree that it predates written history. There are examples of people buried with honey wine.”
Made by fermenting honey and mixing it with water, mead is a traditional beverage with origins worldwide. It developed independently across Africa, Asia, South America and Europe, with each version having distinctive flavours and heritage. Yet because honeybees weren’t brought to the colonies until the early 17th century, mead was scarce in early American history. Sources conflict on its prevalence: Some say it had medicinal uses, while others claim it was reserved for special occasions.
Regardless, colonial Americans found other ways to get their daily drink — and indeed they did drink alcohol daily. According to the National Museum of American History, colonial Americans were wary of water and milk because they carried disease. Instead, they drank hard cider, whiskey, rum and beer.
Apple trees were imported to North America in the late 16th century, and apple products like cider soon became extremely popular. Politicians even used this alcohol as a way to garner support and votes. George Washington’s election agent handed out 144 gallons of cider, rum and beer to voters during his 1758 campaign for the Virginia House of Burgesses. John Adams was said to have drunk hard cider daily with breakfast. Even families with children drank around 90 gallons of cider per year.
Rum, produced by European colonial powers, was widely recognized as the most popular drink before the Revolutionary War — but when Americans gained independence, they wanted independent alcohol, too. In came Kentucky bourbon.
While whiskey (sometimes spelled whisky, depending on the origin) came from Europe, notably Ireland and Scotland, bourbon was specifically American. Kentucky soil produced ample corn for the corn-based beverage, and production increased significantly.
Today, standards on bourbon are clear: “The word ‘bourbon’ may not be used to describe any whisky or whisky-based distilled spirits not distilled and aged in the United States,” says the Code of Federal Regulations. Bourbon became its own form of American revolution, surpassing rum and spreading across the country.
Not only were cider and bourbon drinks of the first patriots, but the founding fathers were also beer enthusiasts. According to the American Beer Institute, Patrick Henry, Thomas Jefferson, Samuel Adams and James Madison were proponents of colony breweries, and George Washington even operated his own.
Now, 250 years later, these drinks remain popular in the United States. But modern production leaves room for new drinks that weren’t as accessible back then.
Today, mead is enjoying a resurgence. According to the American Mead Makers Association, the number of American meaderies has increased from approximately 60 in 2003 to more than 500 as of 2025. And Philadelphia Mead Co. is one of them.
“We’re both half Armenian,” explains Steve Kassiaban. “We grew up with our dad buying cured meats and cheeses. I went to college, and I couldn’t easily get them. So I tried to make some of them. I also knew a couple of guys who were talking about making fermented things and making meads. And I thought, that sounds cool, I’ll make those too!”
Following COVID-19, the job market was difficult. As a solution, the brothers combined Steve’s new passion for mead-making with Rich’s business background and founded Philadelphia Mead Company in 2021. It’s based in Chester County.
“Mead is a lot more user-friendly than brewing. At the end of the day, you’re just mixing honey and water together and fermenting it,” said Steve Kassiaban. He describes it as a hybrid of wine- and beer-making techniques.
“It’s an underserved market,” said Rich Kassabian. “A lot of people are having [mead] for the first time and agreeing that they might like it better than beer or wine.” Flavors can vary with the addition of spices, fruits and grains. “Each ferment is unique, and needs a unique type of care,” he added.
Because of the drink’s rich history, the brothers work to celebrate tradition while adding their own touch. While some versions are standard — honey, water and yeast — others offer opportunities for modern creativity and complex flavors. A popular flavor, Cardamon Rose Mead, recently won Best In Class at the Libation Awards Pennsylvania Invitational.
Since its founding, Philadelphia Mead Co. (whose motto is “Ancient tradition meets modern craft”) has grown across the city. The brothers visit farmers’ markets and sell their products to bottle shops and restaurants. They are also looking to get a Philadelphia taproom. But growth does not come without its setbacks.
“We make a pretty different product than the rest of the genre,” said Rich Kassabian. “Getting businesses to take our products has been a little difficult.” Other challenges are common among new businesses. “Establishing your business and getting the licensing you need, or applying for mercantile tax or business tax for the city,” he said, “that can be really daunting.”
Because mead is relatively new to most Philadelphians, it can be difficult to engage customers. “I think it just feels a little alien to people, and so they’re not really sure how to approach it,” said Steve Kassiaban.
In general, entrepreneurship is risky and challenging. But for the brothers, passion was motivation.
“There is so much you can accomplish if you are not afraid to fail,” said Rich Kassabian. “I think everyone should try if they have an idea or a passion for a business. You won’t believe how much you can accomplish by being determined and asking questions.”
So whether it’s a classic cider or a glass of mead, they hope you’ll try something new to celebrate the country’s 250th anniversary while supporting local businesses. What better way to celebrate America?
https://www.chestnuthilllocal.com/stories/ancient-tradition-meets-modern-craft,40348
