From styleweekly.com
By Rachel Kester
Sip on the nectar of the gods at these two RVA meaderies
It might be one of the world’s oldest alcoholic beverages, but mead (or honey wine) is widely overlooked in a world focused on beer, wine and spirits. Crafted with honey, yeast, water and whatever infusions strike a mead maker’s fancy, this drink marches to its own drum despite often being pushed into the shadows.
In Virginia, there are only about a dozen meaderies—a stark contrast to its over 300 wineries and 200 craft breweries. Richmond is home to two of these meaderies, each with distinct styles but the same mission: To spread an appreciation for the nectar of the gods.
Tucked in Midlothian’s Alverser Plaza, this suburban meadery has been pouring some of the wildest mead flavours imaginable since opening in 2022. Where else can you order a mug of Sweetish Fish, a play on the popular candy?
“Making mead is very similar to traditional grape wines,” says owner Matt Carroll. “We use honey, water and yeast as a basis for all meads we make and then, us in particular, do crazy stuff to it.” Carroll, who has a chemistry background, infuses batches with everything from fruits and spices to hot peppers and coffee beans.
Funktastic owner Matt Carroll
While traditional mead is available, Funktastic also creates carbonated, pure fruit and cocktail-inspired options. Their flavours hit on nostalgia and are full of intriguing twists. One of their most popular selections is the fizzy F&M Root Beer, an ode to the classic soda.
Funktastic uses about 12,000 pounds of honey yearly—primarily wildflower—but other varieties will sometimes show up, like meadowfoam. This honey naturally tastes like a fresh vanilla-infused marshmallow and is featured in their Marshmallow Eyes.
Carroll is constantly experimenting and has over 200 recipes with 25 meads currently available on tap, although these rotate monthly with about three regularly available.
Take a drive from the ‘burbs to Scott’s Addition and you’ll find Bill Cavender making mead at Black Heath Meadery.
Black Heath was the first of its kind in the city when it opened in 2015, but Cavender’s passion for the drink slowly ignited about three decades ago after returning home from a semester abroad in England.
“I had really fallen in love with a lot of European beer styles and from there came home making beer and I kind of moved over to honey wine,” he says. Mead making was a hobby for about two decades before it became his primary job.
Black Heath Meadery’s owner, Bill Cavender with office mascot Otis
“[My wife and I] started the RVA Mead Lab and ran that for about a year,” he says. “[The lab] was to explain mead to people and engage people in mead making.” Black Heath Meadery came to fruition soon after.
One of Cavender’s biggest focuses is incorporating local ingredients in his meads, especially fruit. The meadery partners with area farms like Swift Creek Berry Farm and Agriberry for fresh blackberries, raspberries, blueberries and strawberries. These can be found in batches like the award-winning Berry Goode, Red Razz and Bramble Bee.
Black Heath’s award-winning Berry Goode, Red Razz and Bramble Bee
As a beekeeper, Cavender produces the majority of his own honey with hives scattered throughout the commonwealth. Over 3,000 pounds of honey from the hives is used toward their mead.
Black Heath currently offers 12 meads on draft with about 18 in to-go bottles, including the popular Demon Sweat, a hibiscus and cinnamon blend.
You can also find Black Heath mead in local restaurants and bars that use their concoctions in cocktails, including Bar Solita, who makes their Velvet Lechance with cabernet franc, Black Heath’s blackberry mead, port wine, Spanish vermouth, mulling spices and orange.
If you’re unable to visit the meadery, Black Heath is often at local events, including the upcoming Richmond Renaissance Faire on March 7.
As this year marks a milestone birthday for the business, starting March 15, Black Heath will throw a 10-year anniversary, 10-week long bash. The kickoff party will feature Thai soul food from pop-up Eat Boi! and they’ll also debut a green mead for their small batch Spectrum series which features fruit meads with no water added.
Plight of the honey bee
While it has been around for centuries, mead is still strange to some, one of the biggest challenges for meaderies. It’s why Funktastic added beer to their menu last April. “[There were] people coming in for beer but once they got here they made their way into mead,” says Carroll.
Because mead is honey-based, the plight of the honey bee is also a concern. The insect faces numerous obstacles due to climate change and toxic chemicals which can affect honey quantities.
Despite this, Cavender feels mead provides the perfect learning opportunity. “People are more aware on a larger scale,” he says regarding the honey bee’s significance. “It’s not just honey but all these wonderful foods bees pollinate. Mead has kind of helped educate people on how important the honey bee is.”
The exterior of Black Heath Meadery
Mead is believed to have origins in Africa and has been used over the centuries across societies as an offering, medicine and even a good luck charm.
Unlike traditional wine, mead is more resistant to oxidation and spoilage. Its notes also progressively evolve, something evident in Funktastic’s High Tide, a mixture of black currant and vanilla.
“When it’s fresh, the vanilla is really present and pops,” says Carroll. “But over time, it homogenizes into a black currant flavour.”
While made of sweet honey, mead can be savoury or dry, feature up to 20% ABV or go as low as 7% ABV, be aged in bourbon barrels—there’s really no limit to what can be done.
But perhaps for some, what makes mead so spectacular isn’t just how the drink defies expectations but how it uniquely links the world.
“I feel mead is an important cultural and social connection for people,” says Cavender. “Pretty much every society in the world has consumed [mead] in their history. It serves as a touch point for people to find commonality.”
https://www.styleweekly.com/a-meading-of-the-minds/